Area Fam

Area Fam is a cool military term for getting to know your surroundings. Its sort of like being hip and instead of saying I need some information - you say "I need the 411". That of course doesn't work in other cultures where dialing 411 on your phone may send an ambulance to your location. So in that country I say - "give me the 411" and it means I need urgent medical attention. Area Fam is short for Area Familiarization or getting out and learning your way around the streets. Something very important when security reasons could force an alternate route or the simple movement of the Afghani President closing just about every road in the city.

In my office we have a great Afghan American guy (I will leave him unnamed) who lived here in Kabul until he was about 16 years old (left just prior to the Russian invasion) and has been back here now for a year as a contractor helping the U.S. efforts in Afghanistan. Last Saturday he asked if I was interested in getting out and seeing the city (code named Area Fam) for a couple of hours. I jumped at the chance to leave my minimum security detention facility and at around 2:00PM we dashed.

The first stop was the top of a hill overlooking the city of Kabul. On the top of the hill is the tomb of former King ZAHIR Shah's father. King Zahir holds the honorific title of, "Father of the Country" however no longer holds any power. The tomb was ransacked during the Russian invasion and even the bones of the King's father were pilfered. The place is still a wreck but because of the large open area, it is a destination for many Kabulites seeking a place to fly their kites or otherwise enjoy the fall during their weekend.



Here I was actually allowed to get out of the car and take some pretty fantastic photos of the city lying below and of the tomb itself. If you looked only at the hilltop (despite the horrible state the tomb is in) the scene could be in any city park anywhere in the world. There were children playing, people riding bikes, ice cream carts luring anyone with enough money for a treat, picnics and couples. At that very moment it was very hard to comprehend that this country is currently still at war against the evil regime of the Taliban. It was at this point that a little boy of not more than 8 years old came up to me and said - "Sir, give me water please". He repeated this about 7 or 8 times. Normally we have at least a case, if not more, bottled water in the vehicle. The problem was earlier in the day I'd taken my predecessor to the airport and left the remaining partial case with the airport guards (unbelievable how valuable clean drinking water is). I opened up the back of the vehicle and realized I had not a single bottle of water. I told the young man I was sorry (he didn't understand) but I didn't have any water. I did happen to have a case of MREs (Miliary Rations or Meals Ready to Eat). I don't know if any of you have ever had an MRE but it is basically a brown plastic envelope of vacuum packed nourishment in varying flavors. I pulled one from the box to give to the little boy and before I knew it I had children climbing on my back and pulling at my arms to get the next MRE. Within 10 seconds the entire box of 12 was gone despite my companion asking them in Dari to relax and stop pushing. The case was gone and there were still at least 10 children with empty hands and probably emptier stomachs. It was truly gut wrenching and one of those times when you have to reflect on my own life and how absolutely lucky I was to grow up in my middle-class family never being hungry or thirsty. I also had to grasp the reality of not being able to help every single child in the city of Kabul on that particular day.



We mounted back up and took off to do a bit more exploring. We passed by the former palace which was home to the King and some other huge wigs (doesn't rhyme like Big Wigs but has a better meaning) which starting with the Russian Invasion and ending with the Coalition ousting of the Taliban has certainly scene better days. Just from its mere size you can tell what an unbelievable place it used to be and could haev easily fit into a Robin Leach lifestyles of the Rich and Famous or even MTV's "Cribs" - but not now. Guarded by one outpost of the Afghan National Army, no one seems to care. The trees which used to line the palace have been stripped away for their wood (anything burnable is used for heat in the winter) and now it lies in complete ruin.





We spent another hour or so just driving around the city's downtown area. Not what I would call a pretty sight but when you think that this capital is home to more than 4 Million people, there must be something positive about it. Since Saturday is part of the Afghani weekend, the locals use this day to spend the little money they have on shopping and other social activities. The streets are jammed with horse drawn carts pulling all kinds of wares and those that can't afford a horse, are pulling/pushing their wares. The Kabul river is dry until spring thaw and the lack of rain causes a dust haze that just smothers the city. I've had more odd colored nose substances here than I have anywhere else and I'm sure this doing wonders for my sinuses and lungs. Definitely not a destination for anyone with asthma or any other bronchial problems.



We returned to the Embassy unscathed and with me completely familiarized with the local area. Being here and getting out truly gives me an appreciation of what I have and what many of my fellow citizens of the United States take for granted. Its a moving experience and one that I continue to grow with each and every day. Stay tuned for the next installment entitled - "The Pit".